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This review was contributed by guest reviewer Louise Bolotin.
We picked what turned out to be a quiet evening to sample the delights of Chester’s latest oriental restaurant, housed in the former City Emporium furniture store above the Harkers Arms. But no matter that there were only two other groups, both on the verge of departure. Despite the emptiness, the staff were unfailingly polite and courteous and we were quickly ushered to our pre-booked table in the downstairs teppan-yaki restaurant. I was a bit startled at first to be seated next to the other diners instead of at a separate table, but my partner pointed out that the food is cooked in front of the diners. The seats are arranged in a U shape around the several teppan stations, so you end up sharing your space with others. The menus arrived and were a bit confusing to negotiate - I thought I had been given only a wine list, as there were several pages to flip through before I found the food at the back.
We both ordered a plate of mixed sashimi to start, which arrived with dipping sauces of soy, ginger and garlic. The fish was superbly fresh and melted in the mouth. The plates were beautifully arranged with garnishes of cucumber, lemon and finely shredded raw carrot, with the accompanying wasabi and pickled ginger.
Then the theatre began - two chefs arrived and began juggling fearsome knives, carving forks and whole eggs. This impressive display was quickly followed by us watching in awe as the cook poured a long line of raw, beaten egg onto the hotplate and began rolling it into an omelette before shredding it with a machete and then adding it to the fried rice he had begun to prepare. And what fried rice! Simply the best I had ever eaten - not greasy, just hot and fluffy and with plenty of finely diced vegetables. Brandy was then thrown on the hot plate to create a wall of flames. My partner had ordered the chicken teriyaki, which was next prepared in front of us, as was my ginormous duck breast. Mixed vegetables were also stir-fried to order, all of it laden onto our plates. We tucked in, savouring every mouthful.
The portions were so generous we couldn’t finish them, so we decided to skip dessert (a choice of around 10 flavours of Cheshire Farm ice-cream or the ubiquitous banana or pineapple fritters) and just sat back to finish the very light, dry and fruity bottle of Rioja Rosada we had ordered. The dessert menu also offers a good selection of liqueur coffees and a somewhat overpriced Remy XO at £8.95.
Our total bill for two courses and wine came in at just under £64 - excellent value for money. We will definitely be returning, although the experience is probably best enjoyed as part of a larger group given the theatricality of the cooking. If you like Japanese food, raw fish in particular, this is a place not to be missed.
There is also a Thai restaurant on the first floor and there is an early-evening menu with a choice of starters and mains for £10.95 a head, until 6.45pm.
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