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Although only four years old at the time of our most recent visit, Piccolino is - in restaurant years - already a young adult. It is established and popular on the Chester dining circuit. Ask any random group of local restaurant-goers what their favourite Italian is and I guarantee that at least half of them will choose Piccolino.
As it happens, I never was a fan. A couple of bad experiences in its young puppyhood were sufficient to put me off. These were not problems with the food, but with the front-of-house: the handling of reservations and the way one had to wait seemingly for ever to get one's pre-booked table. I can even remember once being asked to make a non-refundable deposit for a booking. It seemed to me that there could never be a way back for Piccolino after such an enormity.
But three years is long enough. It was time to give it another go. Chester isn't so rich in Italian options that we can afford to boycott one of them indefinitely. The phone call was made ("ciao... buona sera... prego...") and the time agreed. Come Saturday night, we duly turned up on time. Our arrival was processed efficiently and we were led to our table. No problem. Unlike boarding an aeroplane, one turns right to get to the best seats, and happily this was where we were taken. There was a lively buzz about the place rather than the madness of years ago.
We started with calamari, which were excellent, and crostini con fegato - chicken livers and mushrooms in a red wine sauce on a slice of bruschetta. This was mostly good but was marred by being served on long-overheated bread. Rib-eye steak with potatoes roasted with rosemary was on the small side - perhaps the menu should specify the weight of your steak - but nicely done. My pizza was very good. Base and topping as good as I've had and way ahead of Pizza Express's equivalent. A bottle of Montepulciano was a minor fail, with an unfinished tartness that belied its three years.
Prices were pretty steep. You're looking at £80-£90 for two for a 'proper' meal, though you can get off much more lightly if you just go in for a pizza/pasta refuel. Every dish is a quid or two more expensive than you might expect. But then Piccolino is a 20-strong chain and there is a corporate overlord that must be fed. The staff are not shy about up-selling either, but I don't mind that - it's good to be reminded of any overlooked opportunities to enhance one's meal. One can always say no.
Things went well. The food was good enough - not top class but pretty decent. The service was excellent: the waiters all seemed to be Italian and knew exactly when they were needed and - just as importantly - when they were not. There was a good vibe. I like the idea that there is a decent bar to retire to after eating or to wait at beforehand. Gives a place a certain dynamism, a little bit of zing.
Most restaurants are exciting when they first open. Some seem to have been with us forever, as reliable as a leather jacket. The challenge comes after the first flush of youth has passed and the excitement has given way to routine. Some restaurants rise to it, others lose the plot. Piccolino has matured remarkably well.
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