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It was while I had my hands under the formidable, state-of-the-art hand dryer, watching the skin ripple like the surface of a pond in slow motion, that I began to get it. It was a serious machine, the sort of kit that you do not install if you do not intend to make some kind of impression. If you were feeling a little bit apprehensive about your prospects of breaking into Chester's highly competitive restaurant scene, you'd probably be thinking of putting in something a bit cheaper, a little bit less expansive. But no, this machine was a potent signal of G.A.L.'s confidence and ambition.
My first impressions were that this would be a rather modest, unassuming kind of establishment. The low-key exterior colour scheme, the auntieish lettering, the quaint self-designation, 'Wine Bar Restaurant', all whispered so politely. But through the doors, the welcome was warm and the room pleasing.
Indeed, there is something about this modern, corner site at the posh end of Frodsham Street that seems to bring a twinkle to the interior designers' eye. G.A.L.'s designers are no exception to the rule. Cool things have been done with lights (in fact, the place is transformed after dark) and a curtain of mother-in-law's tongues is a neat way of letting you sit in a shop window without feeling like a dummy. The furniture may not be to everybody's taste, but it is comfortable and functional.
The menu at first seemed odd. There was no obvious theme. It was eclectic, in a contemporary way. Fish was a strong play - three of the four options on the specials menu featured specimens of the finny race. We were told that sourcing favours the local, the seasonal and the choice. Perhaps, with its unfussy preparation, bold flavours and careful sourcing, it could have been the menu in a gastropub (though there is little enough else of the gastropub about G.A.L). Prices were in the moderate zone: starters for a fiver, mains from £9 (burger, fish and chips, green curry) to £21 for fillet steak.
Tracey went for the bread and oil appetiser, I chose the prosciutto. Her bread was warm and good and the roasted garlic dip, especially, was a treat. My ham was good of itself, though it was wrapped around home-made breadsticks, which had inevitably been rendered tough and lifeless. There was something of the catering college also about Tracey's veal special which, again, was rolled around something - in this case a mash of spinach and gruyere which, with a heady red wine sauce, rather overwhelmed the veal. My Moroccan lamb burger was cooked just right (though I wasn't asked) and packed with flavour. It came with good fries and a yoghurt and cucumber sauce. Each of these four dishes was served on different crockery, specially selected for its role. I finished off with a chocolate and cherry mousse from the specials menu which was good at first but became less of a mousse, more of a mess as I plumbed its depths.
The wine list is notably wallet-friendly. So much so that, for once, I found myself ordering from the top end of the list instead of the bottom. The powerful animal scent of the Pioneers Block Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand (£19) had no problems rubbing shoulders with the robust flavours of our meal.
Service was first-rate. Friendly, confident and always there when we needed them, the staff are a credit to this restaurant. There are plenty of them, too, not just front of house but - looking through the big serving hatch - also in the kitchen. Further evidence that the proprietors foresee a busy future.
G.A.L. will come to find its strengths and play to them. There is much that is already good. Perhaps the menu could use some more work - it would be nice to see even more focus on the seasonal, with a bigger specials menu. The commitment and confidence are there. We believe that what is pretty good now can become better still in time to come.
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