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Not many of Chester's bars stick around long enough to get a second or third review in these pages. The list of those who have dazzled in the spotlight of fashionability before fading away after a few short years is long: Lobby, Edwards, 10 Commonhall, Loaf, Office, Room, Got Wine, Tonik... But where others have flashed and burned, Bar Lounge has stayed the distance. Our original review was broadly positive, though not particularly excited, and with the benefit of hindsight you can see why this might be so: there is nothing especially inspired about taking on a traditional pub, putting in a couple of sofas and raising the bar a little on the food and drink offer.
Yet Bar Lounge's achievement can now be seen as quite remarkable. For its consistency in maintaining the highest standards is unique. Starting from a good but modest base, it has improved organically - the modern dining room extension, the colonisation of the pavement - with little fuss. But it is the way it has held the line on quality that wins our admiration. Personnel have come and gone, but the standard of service has never faltered. One is greeted cheerfully almost as soon as stepping through the door. There is hardly anywhere else in Chester I would trust to mix a proper cocktail. Even fewer that would do it with the speed and grace you get here. And this consistently and reliably so.
Food is taken seriously and while it doesn't quite rise to the heights of the cocktail service, is still some of the best you can get outside of the restaurant sector. As a benchmark, the basic burger is £9.50, which to my parsimonious mentality seems pretty steep. But a quick check reveals that it is cheaper than Harker's version. Oh and it's locally sourced and damn tasty. Apart from the burgers (and this might just be me) the menu shows a strong male/female polarisation: pork belly, steaks, pie for him; chicken caesar, ravioli, roast salmon for her.
There are no draft ales, but all your other liquid requirements are well catered for. Cocktails are the speciality and a seasonal menu is provided, though old favourites like the martini and the mojito as well as champagne cocktails seem to be going well. The menu also features a number of appealing mixes presented in shot format, as we write. Pretty much any wine is available by the glass - a request for a single glass of pink champagne was met without missing a beat. There is an adequate array of bottled and keg beers.
The crowd is generally up market. There are no Foregate Street-style specials here - people don't mind digging a bit deeper. The vibe is relaxed. Not much posing; not much attitude. Music is present but drowned by conversation. There is a good split between standing and seated drinkers and we detect a recent tweaking of the topography to encourage the vertical trade. Decor and lighting are seductive inside, twinkly outside. Tables are waited.
You could come here for a celebration, but this isn't a big bang kind of place and you might risk a mismatch of expectation against probability. Our recommendation would be to visit just when you're feeling good and you've got a few bob in your pocket.
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